CustomRCmodels R/C Tank's | home
FAO about R/C tanks
there are plenty of online-forums where individual questions about these models are discussed ...
( this is my own forum )
I will try to create here a collection of the most frequent asked questions
and also post my own experiences and ideas
as well these of other fellow hobbyist...
any info's you can contribute ,
or question as well , are highly appreciated ....
please email me with your ideas , info's or questions :
here a copy of a recent post , evaluating and info's to Tamiya's 1/16 R/C tanks
From: "willyloewer" <willysjunkmail@a...>
Date: Sun Dec 12, 2004 12:20 pm
Subject: [Armornut's RC Armor Hut] Re: King Tiger questions
I guess I need to give my 5 cents to this as well ......
and continue on what Bill , Daryl and Kevin already wrote about this :
first , the King Tiger is in my opinion the worst tank you can chose
to setup for Danville ...
( even thought some say it's the Pershing , but to get the Pershing
running good , it mainly just takes a very clean buildup and internal
setup of the wiring ,
they are some good upgrade options but that is a different chapter )
we need to remember the King Tiger was 1 of the first tanks ( besides
the Sherman and the old Leopard ) years ago Tamiya released......
those days these models mend to be a highly detailed scale-model with
the option that they can be radio controlled ....
these tanks where never designed to be put in such stress as we do on
the King Tiger has following weak points :
on the first generation DMD-gearboxes ( the ones with the white
plastic and brass gears ) the support for the final outdriveshafts
( the one where the drivesprocket mounts too ) is to narrow , to hold
the outdrive solid in an 90 degree to the chassis ,
especially if you are running metal-tracks ....there is to much
torque working on it ...plus the gearboxes have a tendency to move
within the mounting-holes under stress...
when the gearboxes go out of alignment , the tracks have the tendency
to walk off the drivesprokets ...
they are several different versions of reinforcements for that , like
this one here :
( shown here on a Tiger 1 , including metal gears with ball-bearings,
gear-reductions and larger motors )
or here in a King Tiger with 540 type motors
( 1 of my earlier setups )
but besides this reinforcement kit ( the red alloy-parts ) you need
to stiffen up the support-block for the outdrives with additional
screws , otherwise it will still be able to shift under load
( when using metal-tracks )
the newer style gearboxes ( with the black plastic covers ) have a
better support for the final outdriveshaft , but they do have a weak
link in the gearing ...
quite a few guys have reported shredded gears ....Daryl and myself
experiment here with a few different solutions in the moment ....
the gearbox-flex combined with the chassis-flex will put additional
wear on the gears and makes your tracks walking of the drivesprockets
a chassis-reinforcement is needed here ,
best with countersunk-screws , so that nothing can give :
tracks and track-tension :
the tracks are much weaker design as the ones from the Tiger 1 ,
( as Kevin explained )
therefore you have to insure that they move in a straight line
( gearbox-alignment / chassis-reinforcement ) and they do need a good
working rear-idler/track-tensioning setup .
Daryl makes a nice spring loadet setup here , what I saw first time
on his King Tiger ....he was running plastic tracks ,
since I wanted to run metal-tracks I took this a step further , by
including also a rear-chassis-reinforcement , with thicker shafts and
this setup does work great for metal tracks ....
for plastic tracks Daryl's setup should be just fine....
as more movement ( spring loadet ) you have on the rear-idler ,
as a higher chance you have that rocks and other stuff gets stuck in
the tracks ,will just walk around
and finally will fall out of the tracks .....
by the way , this applies to every tank ! a lot of guys have adapted
this idea now also to there Tiger 1's .......
what should you do now ? running plastic or metal tracks ?
ask yourself what you want ? do you want to have your King Tiger
battle-ready as cheap as possible
or do you want to have a "King of the Hill " ?
( that's what I called my King Tiger since with his weight and the
now bullet-proof setup it's a "go anywhere" tank )
I only recommend metal-tracks if you are willing to go all the way
with the modifications ....,
otherwise stick with the plastic-tracks , but you do need a good
( chassis-reinforcement will help here too ) ,
and keep your tank as light as possible , and drive your King Tiger
with "brain" ...( like Daryl and Bill bean showing ... .. ).
meaning , if it get's stuck , get of the throttle ....
otherwise you will shred gears and tracks .....
especially if you are using gear-reductions ,
what you will need to stay within the scale-speed.....
the "heavy-metal-version" as I did , is now Danville proven
( was shown several times with some real crazy stunt-driving-
maneuvers - don't try that with a stock King Tiger ! ),
but it takes a lot of work to get it there ........
it's your choice .......
I guess that should cover most issues about the King Tiger..at least
what I have encountered over the past 2 years making a static King
Tiger in a battle-ready machine ..you may ask yourself now , why did
I do it ? well , the challenge , to get the worst tank battle-ready !
read also the posts from Kevin , Daryl and Bill....
sorry Bob , I only can partial agree with your last post
( as Bill already answered to that one..... ),
looking forward to replies of this post , since I am planning to add
a special "King Tiger section" to my website ....
more infos will follow .....